Day 6 - Ross & Smith - Adventure at Sea

Today was the last but one day of the tour, no ride day apparently also no phone day. Today’s plan was to visit Ross and Smith Island, support vehicle to ferry point, boat to the twin islands of Ross and Smith. After spending the morning half in the islands, we will return to ferry point for lunch and board the cruise to Port Blair.

Chidu devised alternate plan that will give us more time to explore nearby Islands, plan was to take the night bus instead of cruise to reach Port Blair. He can try his snorkelling there and I agreed to join him.

At the ferry point met forest officer, nature enthusiast supported our tour by making early boat arrangements to reach the beach before local crowd piled up. He chose this job after trying different jobs. His passion was visible as he spoke on the unique opportunities his job offers. He and his team of 1 or 2 people get to stay at different islands with minimum needs and experience nature and its wilderness, just like in cast away. Many such bureaucrats, islanders support and promote the cycling tour out of their way.

Twin islands Ross and Smith are connected by a small patch of land that can be crossed over during low tides. British had enjoyed these beautiful beaches with picnics and parties as one could gather from the pictures at central Jail.

Water level was high and hence we couldn’t walk across to Smith but had a good long time in the beautiful blue beach, playing, floating in its shallow waters. Samarth with flying disc, Shweta swimming far away in the blue sea, Chidu hunting corals (he did find some here). I disappointed Chidu, didn’t join him into the sea to get a glimpse of corals. I couldn’t float breathing through the snorkelling tube continuously, after multiple attempts with life jacket on one arm, and then without it, Chidu gave up. Not knowing swimming, I was not confident and told him I need to be alive for my daughter. I trust and follow him in cycling techniques but cannot take this risk in sea. 

With our phones yet not operable, we split from the group at lunch point, while others boarded the cruise. We headed back to the resort in autorickshaw. Resort owner Mr.Alex Rajan, malayali gave the confidence to attempt swimming across the sea to nearby island, a stretch that he and his daughter have swam across umpteen times. He added beautiful sea life, corals there are worth the attempt. I too was tempted to reach the island somehow, but it was too late to arrange for a touring boat, no chance for me.

I accompanied Chidu with my book, to play the role of ineffective security guard (no phone, can’t swim). All I can do is run back to resort to get help as there was not a single soul in the beach. Alex said it will take 15 to 20 minutes to reach the island, so I planned to have an eye on Chidu until he reaches the island, post which I can read. From the beach I saw Chidu’s head, bobbing up and down with his snorkeling kit. Exhaustion took over and I dozed off, when I woke up I could not spot Chidu, neither in the water nor on the shore. I didn’t panic but was very concerned. It started to drizzle, I went as far as I can into the water, couldn’t spot him though, rain made visibility worse. It was more than 20 minutes, just as I was speculating to get help, I spotted him. He was close to the island, relieved just stood there for 5 to 10 mins glaring at the sea. He was fervently swimming but not really reaching the island, it is overall 40 minutes since he started swimming. Rain had stopped, but he was now swimming nearing the shore, my side of the shore.

Chidu said the sea became too rough, rains made it worse, and he was drained. He regretted not able to reach the island despite being so close to it. But true to his words, he decided to return assessing his energy and not to take any further risks. I was relieved to see him safe, we walked back to resort and refreshed.

Alex’s daughter who had just come from Port Blair via cruise, informed us that there was a warning not to go to the sea (that Alex was unaware). This explains why Chidu couldn’t swim across as it was supposedly safe stretch to attempt. We also met Dr.Shailaja and Shwetha who had extended their stay to catchup with friends at Diglipur before their flight to Bangalore.

Mr Alex had arranged for tickets to Port Blair in the best private bus as promised. We took a local bus right in front of the resort to Diglipur centre.

Diglipur was decorated with lights for Durga Puja, was deserted at 7 PM except for a few shops. As we walked past the sweet shops, I was reminded of the small Bengali villages, ones I had imagined based on Satyajit Ray‘s books and movies.

We had very nice dosa and chutney at small tamil shop, dosas in Bengali town again only at Andaman 😊. Network connection was good from the town, updated family on our change of plans. We hopped on to the last row in the good private bus, which was nothing more than local buses, flying between small towns in mainland. It will take us to Port Blair, assuring enough. In the bus on boarded different kinds of people, young mother with baby, Nicobar family, youngsters working in mainland on their long journey from home.

As the bus started rolling on everyone in the bus, were thrown up from their seats. Seated at the rear seat with a good visibility of everyone thrown up and down, all of us were nothing but grains in a winnowing pan.

Every two minutes I commended myself on successfully managing the throw better and braced up for the next one, trick was to hold on to the front seat using both my legs and hands all through the night, good ground for stress testing fevicol. It was an unforgettable, sleepless night journey that never seem to end. We traced back our cycling route from Diglipur North Andaman, via Mayabhunder, Rangat, in and out of jetties, crossing Jarawar reserve area to Port Blair, south Andaman.

No matter at what time the buses start from Diglipur, it was a norm to wait until Jarwar reserve forest was opened for commute. This was blessing in disguise, gave us window to catch up some sleep for the overall night. All along Andaman, access to decently maintained toilets were savior. Finally the bus dropped us just in front of the hotel at 9 AM, I sincerely thanked the young driver for his driving skills.

As we entered the reception, we were warmly welcomed by the whole group, happy to see us alive in single piece. It was like a college reunion, homecoming. We helped ourselves to buffet breakfast narrating our adventures and Chidu’s risky attempts at sea. Amidst good advice from well-wishers and friends I’m glad that we took a risk and tried out, after all what is adventure without any risks? Post breakfast we dispersed with some of them extending their stay to explore nearby islands.

Like every sports activity, cycling tours are not just about fitness or sightseeing, the experience tests and builds you psychologically. It provides immense opportunities to sculpt you, your thoughts, physical fitness is just a bonus.

Essence of penning down this experience is to emphasize that if me, a working mother of teenager, with good chunk of responsibilities (support for my parents) can go on a week long cycling tour then anybody can. You need not be a professional cyclist, cycling every day or weekend, with some basic fitness it is possible. This was evident from other first timers, Dr.Amritha (regular swimmer) & pondy brothers Puru and Brij (tennis players), did the tour all along as strong riders.

Touring in bicycle is an invitation to explore & embrace mother nature in a sustainable way, to question comforts and so called luxuries, to be off-line & disconnected from World Wide Web, to relive your childhood moments, to fly in the air without wings(downhills), to breathe fresh air without polluting it, to enjoy challenges, to break away from routine, to build bonds, to unlearn and relearn, to evolve, to enjoy life as a better person.